DAY 1 – MON, MAR 28TH (CONT)
We had a fun ski over towards the end of the day, across the Plateau du Trient (3200 m) where we had to pole to keep our momentum across the flats, the snow dirty and somewhat degraded from the sun and sand. The group had made good time and we stopped just below the hut to look up and saw the cabin perched on a rocky outcrop.
I was feeling depleted after the two cols, due to the heat, the altitude and the lack of water and sleep. We skinned up the last 100 meters, winding through a small talus field before the day was done.
We had a fun ski over towards the end of the day, across the Plateau du Trient (3200 m) where we had to pole to keep our momentum across the flats, the snow dirty and somewhat degraded from the sun and sand. The group had made good time and we stopped just below the hut to look up and saw the cabin perched on a rocky outcrop.
I was feeling depleted after the two cols, due to the heat, the altitude and the lack of water and sleep. We skinned up the last 100 meters, winding through a small talus field before the day was done.
Panorama from the deck of the Cabane du Trient (3,170 m), snow covered in sand from the Sahara.
Cabane du TrientAfter walking up the icy steps to the cabin we spread out our equipment and skins, taking our boots apart in the afternoon sun. Inside the hut it was comfortable, tons of windows and bench style seating, running water and we were greeted by two fresh baked apple galettes.
I put my skis and poles in the ski shed outside and some of my equipment in the foyer, which was a kind of a wet room, inside a cubby before it got dark. Ice axes went in the vestibule. Upstairs each person had their own bunk and just enough space in the close quarters to lie down, but it didn’t matter really, because there was more than enough space to sleep. This was the first night since we arrived that I slept through the night which was a huge relief.
I put my skis and poles in the ski shed outside and some of my equipment in the foyer, which was a kind of a wet room, inside a cubby before it got dark. Ice axes went in the vestibule. Upstairs each person had their own bunk and just enough space in the close quarters to lie down, but it didn’t matter really, because there was more than enough space to sleep. This was the first night since we arrived that I slept through the night which was a huge relief.
The night before in Chamonix the bus vouchers the Hotel Le Dahu had given us didn’t work. Luckily someone had some Euros otherwise we would have had to walk back up the hill to Argentiere.
We drank beers in the waning sun on the picnic table and then went inside for dinner. The hut served us a delicious version of split pea soup, salad and pasta with chocolate mousse for dessert. Afterwards we hydrated and looked over the map and the program for the next day with the other teams and guides buzzing around.
We drank beers in the waning sun on the picnic table and then went inside for dinner. The hut served us a delicious version of split pea soup, salad and pasta with chocolate mousse for dessert. Afterwards we hydrated and looked over the map and the program for the next day with the other teams and guides buzzing around.
We had tried to make this trip happen in March of 2020, but everything got turned upside down due to the pandemic. One person dropped out a month before this year’s attempt, but then luckily Ephraim joined, which was perfect.
Five weeks before the start of the trip, after a call with Jason, I booked my flight. Countries were starting to open back up, not everywhere, but places were loosening their international travel restrictions and our prospects were looking good. Then I checked and saw my passport had expired.
So I had to write my state representatives and pay extra to get the passport renewal processsing expedited. Was checking the application status website every day. For a of couple weeks it was really touch-and-go.
So I had to write my state representatives and pay extra to get the passport renewal processsing expedited. Was checking the application status website every day. For a of couple weeks it was really touch-and-go.
Early morning view from the deckThe week before we left, Ephraim and I were backcountry skiing near Crystal, WA and on the last run he looked down and saw a crack in the toe of his boot. When we got back to Seattle the priority shifted from skiing to solving the boot issue, with only like a couple of days to turn it around. So much had to line up for this trip to happen, but it all worked out in the end.
DAY 2 - TUES, MAR 29TH
We skied down from the hut next to the Trient Glacier (3000m) around 7 AM. The warden had marked a safe passageway between small red posts and you could see other skiers had been this way, but it was very close to the glacier. We came to a stop at the foot of the Col du Ecandies (2780m).
Over the years the Trient Glacier has receeded considerably and used to go much lower into the valley. Sadly the rate of glacial decline continues to increase due to climate change and rising persistent temperatures.
Switzerland’s warming is two to three times faster than the global average. The number of summer days (with maximum temperature above 25°C) doubled between 1961 and 2016, while the number of snow days decreased by more than three days per decade.
We skied down from the hut next to the Trient Glacier (3000m) around 7 AM. The warden had marked a safe passageway between small red posts and you could see other skiers had been this way, but it was very close to the glacier. We came to a stop at the foot of the Col du Ecandies (2780m).
Over the years the Trient Glacier has receeded considerably and used to go much lower into the valley. Sadly the rate of glacial decline continues to increase due to climate change and rising persistent temperatures.
Switzerland’s warming is two to three times faster than the global average. The number of summer days (with maximum temperature above 25°C) doubled between 1961 and 2016, while the number of snow days decreased by more than three days per decade.
Looking across at the Trient Glacier
After the ski down past the open glacier there was the short ascent of the Col du Ecandies, a challenging climb that was mostly rock, normally snow, but due to the conditions it was a steep, dirty and loose scramble. Other teams had arrived before we came up and there was a slight delay. Our guide walked right up it like water.
We attached skis and poles to the backpack, then together on the rope we worked our way up the crack with our ski boots on. It took roughly ten minutes, maybe more with the two transitions and the delay caused by the team ahead of us.
We attached skis and poles to the backpack, then together on the rope we worked our way up the crack with our ski boots on. It took roughly ten minutes, maybe more with the two transitions and the delay caused by the team ahead of us.
Short pause after climbing the col and skiing down a bit.
Looking back up, other teams filtered over and skied past.
The French team behind us was silent while we waited. I was stemmed between a small bit of rock and had the point of my boot kicked into the dirt, the other foot on a small bit of rock. We all coordinated the effort because of the rope, moving together.
Being in the back I could only see glimpses of everyone else and was largely unware of what lay ahead but recall spending some time there waiting for the team ahead of us in kind of a breakover without much to stand on. Rock and debris fell as we moved and my pack and equipment scraped against the rocks. People called out which rocks were loose but I couldn’t see. Everyone was making a fuss about the rocks and there wasn’t a lot of time to do anything but hang on or move up.
Being in the back I could only see glimpses of everyone else and was largely unware of what lay ahead but recall spending some time there waiting for the team ahead of us in kind of a breakover without much to stand on. Rock and debris fell as we moved and my pack and equipment scraped against the rocks. People called out which rocks were loose but I couldn’t see. Everyone was making a fuss about the rocks and there wasn’t a lot of time to do anything but hang on or move up.
We skied the rest of the way down into Champex, through some small trees and onto a small ski run. On the glacier there weren’t any trees only rock and snow, so all of a sudden we were down to the road.
After arriving at the bottom we called a taxi and waited next to a little chairlift base station, with another French team, then drove down the winding roads for about an hour to Le Châble. We bought tickets and rode the lower smaller gondola to the main part of Verbier and the Hotel de la Post.
Our room had an enormous balcony. We took showers and did some laundry hanging things out to dry. Attempted to dry my socks with the hair dryer—was feeling good.
After arriving at the bottom we called a taxi and waited next to a little chairlift base station, with another French team, then drove down the winding roads for about an hour to Le Châble. We bought tickets and rode the lower smaller gondola to the main part of Verbier and the Hotel de la Post.
Our room had an enormous balcony. We took showers and did some laundry hanging things out to dry. Attempted to dry my socks with the hair dryer—was feeling good.
We got lunch, then walked around and got beers. Vibe was off season.
Dinner at the hotel was venison medallions, sauerkraut, potatoes au gratin and cheese for dessert. We were the only ones in there and the attire was ski clothes. Artur and I took a picture side by side standing there in our boot liners before walking down to the restaurant.
Dinner at the hotel was venison medallions, sauerkraut, potatoes au gratin and cheese for dessert. We were the only ones in there and the attire was ski clothes. Artur and I took a picture side by side standing there in our boot liners before walking down to the restaurant.
DAY 3 - WED, MAR 30TH
It was raining when we woke up in Verbier. Breakfast was muesli, bread, cheese, salami, yogurt, orange juice and coffee—boiled egg, jam. Then back upstairs to pack the bag and be downstairs. After the debrief the night before we discussed the changing weather. Every day it was ‘day by day’ and ‘we will see’, so we continued. The base area looked like an elaborate casino, decorative like an old theatre.
Up we went the multiple gondolas at Verbier. Overcast and low visibility outside. After the tram we arrived at a small yurt for coffee and a break. No rush. Rain had turned to snow. Then we skied down in area to the bottom of an open bowl and put our skins on. Visibility had turned to shit, so switched to goggles for the descent and then back to sunglasses for the ski tour up to the Col de la Chaux (2490m) and over the Col de Momin (3003m).
There was always a bit of banter during the transitional periods from skiing down to putting skins on for the up. The starts would be cold and then after some skiing and before the climb we’d take the jackets off because it was the beginning of the climb and you’d heat up on the climb, so the jackets would come off and this was a constant throughout the trip, taking clothes on and off and repacking your pack accordingly.
It was raining when we woke up in Verbier. Breakfast was muesli, bread, cheese, salami, yogurt, orange juice and coffee—boiled egg, jam. Then back upstairs to pack the bag and be downstairs. After the debrief the night before we discussed the changing weather. Every day it was ‘day by day’ and ‘we will see’, so we continued. The base area looked like an elaborate casino, decorative like an old theatre.
Up we went the multiple gondolas at Verbier. Overcast and low visibility outside. After the tram we arrived at a small yurt for coffee and a break. No rush. Rain had turned to snow. Then we skied down in area to the bottom of an open bowl and put our skins on. Visibility had turned to shit, so switched to goggles for the descent and then back to sunglasses for the ski tour up to the Col de la Chaux (2490m) and over the Col de Momin (3003m).
There was always a bit of banter during the transitional periods from skiing down to putting skins on for the up. The starts would be cold and then after some skiing and before the climb we’d take the jackets off because it was the beginning of the climb and you’d heat up on the climb, so the jackets would come off and this was a constant throughout the trip, taking clothes on and off and repacking your pack accordingly.
The ski tour and the gentler grade of the approach to the Rosablanche (3336m) was enjoyable. Then the climb became more difficullt and more like a hallucination, the repetition and the increase in awareness, the sheer amount of vertical challenging us. The boys handled it and our delusions were maybe because of both the altitude, effort and the poor visibility.
At the next stop I broke the plastic buckle from the helmet flap of my backpack. Some had to use skin wax to keep the warm snow from sticking to the bottom of their skis. We climbed for a while trading places, sometimes I toured in the back with Ephraim, Artur right behind Adi who was leading out, Jason up ahead of me.
Before the top of the Rosablanche we crossed another slippery steep section, which required a particular delicate technique sliding the edges of the ski carefully to prevent you from sliding backwards, then reached a bench next to a cornice and a dropoff. We put on boot crampons, roped up, then ascended the short bootpack, really the only time we had our ice axes. Our group spent five minutes on the summit waiting for it to clear, which never happened, then returned stepping down the ridge to our skis on the little flat area below the bootpack.
The ski down the Glacier de Prafleuri was delightful with some new snow and we made wide GS turns after a long day of climbing. On to the Plafleuri hut (2662m) in the white out. Adi checking his GPS every 500 meters. There was zero visibility at this point and the lower we skied the whiter it got. I skied in the back of the group, thinking that if I fell and no one turned around, how would I know where to go? We zigged through the lower terrain, manuevering over snow covered rocks and down the narrow undulating track to the glow of Plafleuri.
Inside were long tables with red coverings, groups drank and talked lively. Around the corner a woman and a child were in the kitchen. Jason ordered a rösti. After putting skis in the shed and hanging the skins we attempted to make our homes for the night in the room at the top of the stairs. The cabin was in excellent shape, wood-lined with proper bunks and a pad. We drank water and beers then ate chicken and mashed potatos and an incredible homemade peach cobbler desert. The French teams were there and some Americans from Seattle. We went out at dusk and took pictures.
At the next stop I broke the plastic buckle from the helmet flap of my backpack. Some had to use skin wax to keep the warm snow from sticking to the bottom of their skis. We climbed for a while trading places, sometimes I toured in the back with Ephraim, Artur right behind Adi who was leading out, Jason up ahead of me.
Before the top of the Rosablanche we crossed another slippery steep section, which required a particular delicate technique sliding the edges of the ski carefully to prevent you from sliding backwards, then reached a bench next to a cornice and a dropoff. We put on boot crampons, roped up, then ascended the short bootpack, really the only time we had our ice axes. Our group spent five minutes on the summit waiting for it to clear, which never happened, then returned stepping down the ridge to our skis on the little flat area below the bootpack.
The ski down the Glacier de Prafleuri was delightful with some new snow and we made wide GS turns after a long day of climbing. On to the Plafleuri hut (2662m) in the white out. Adi checking his GPS every 500 meters. There was zero visibility at this point and the lower we skied the whiter it got. I skied in the back of the group, thinking that if I fell and no one turned around, how would I know where to go? We zigged through the lower terrain, manuevering over snow covered rocks and down the narrow undulating track to the glow of Plafleuri.
Inside were long tables with red coverings, groups drank and talked lively. Around the corner a woman and a child were in the kitchen. Jason ordered a rösti. After putting skis in the shed and hanging the skins we attempted to make our homes for the night in the room at the top of the stairs. The cabin was in excellent shape, wood-lined with proper bunks and a pad. We drank water and beers then ate chicken and mashed potatos and an incredible homemade peach cobbler desert. The French teams were there and some Americans from Seattle. We went out at dusk and took pictures.
Inside the Cabane de Plafleuri.
We had an amazing dinner here, everyone was served at the same time. Some guys next to us from Slovenia. 
DAY 4 - THUR, MAR 31ST
Plafleuri over the Col du Roux to the traverse along Lac de Dix to Pas du Chat, Pas de Chevres and then the climb to Cabane des Vignettes.
7 AM start.
Distance: 15 km
Elevation: 1400 m
Time: 9 hours
Skinned up in the early dawn white out following Adi who followed the waypoints of his GPS towards to the Col des Roux. It was still dark. At the top of the col there was rime on the sign that pointed out the Lac des Dix. We ripped our skins off and then started the long traverse around the high side of the lake.
We poled and skated with the downhill ski along the track and then walked on the grass and rocks when necessary. I was grateful for the light snow which made it much easier to travel. At times it was thin and sometimes the snow was rotten, but we managed. The mountains remained veiled as we moved.
Plafleuri over the Col du Roux to the traverse along Lac de Dix to Pas du Chat, Pas de Chevres and then the climb to Cabane des Vignettes.
7 AM start.
Distance: 15 km
Elevation: 1400 m
Time: 9 hours
Skinned up in the early dawn white out following Adi who followed the waypoints of his GPS towards to the Col des Roux. It was still dark. At the top of the col there was rime on the sign that pointed out the Lac des Dix. We ripped our skins off and then started the long traverse around the high side of the lake.
We poled and skated with the downhill ski along the track and then walked on the grass and rocks when necessary. I was grateful for the light snow which made it much easier to travel. At times it was thin and sometimes the snow was rotten, but we managed. The mountains remained veiled as we moved.
Last traverse before the Cheilon GlacierClimbed up over the Pas du Chat (2385m) into a high plateau just below the Dix hut. The sun came out. Mont Blanc du Cheilon (3869m) appeared, a tessalation full of snow fields, hanging glaciers, like a realization from a dream. A terrifying ridge appeared on its northeast face, dropping 1000 meters into the valley. Clouds dragged on it like some sort of snag.
Mont Blanc du Cheilon was first climbed by Johann Jakob Weilenmann and J. Felley on September 11, 1865 and it towered over us, a truly massive tetrahedron.
Mont Blanc du Cheilon was first climbed by Johann Jakob Weilenmann and J. Felley on September 11, 1865 and it towered over us, a truly massive tetrahedron.
Most of the time we only ever stopped for five minutes. Long enough to evaluate your layering, either put a layer on because it was cold or take something off, get some food, drink and take a piss. ‘Swiss pause’ I believe is what we came to call it. Barely enough time to do anything other than the basics.
Lower down it had been warm and there was a section with soft rotten snow near the moraine we traversed. The kind that had been there all season and your skis would sink, leaving a hole for the next person to negotiate. Eventually after much effort we reached a higher flatter section at the skirt of the Cheilon Glacier.
Lower down it had been warm and there was a section with soft rotten snow near the moraine we traversed. The kind that had been there all season and your skis would sink, leaving a hole for the next person to negotiate. Eventually after much effort we reached a higher flatter section at the skirt of the Cheilon Glacier.
The sun came out and we were able to take in the Mont Blanc de Cheilon, the Cabane des Dix—the Pigne d’Arolla beyond on the way to the ladders below the Pas du Chevres.
We stopped here, Artur flew his drone. I ate a portion of the Swiss energy bars, called ‘Energy Balls’ I had purchased in Verbier.
We stopped here, Artur flew his drone. I ate a portion of the Swiss energy bars, called ‘Energy Balls’ I had purchased in Verbier.
Mont Blanc de Cheilon
Below the Pas du Chevres (2991m) we put on our boot crampons, lashed our skis and poles to the pack and then stepped up the steep snowfield to the series of iron ladders and platforms that were bolted into the rock.
We crossed paths with another skier, past the Cabane des Dix, at the snowfield below the ladders. Said he was looking for a missing pair of crampons. To think that he hiked up without crampons and then climbed the ladders with one hand, carrying his skis and poles in the other was hard to believe.
We crossed paths with another skier, past the Cabane des Dix, at the snowfield below the ladders. Said he was looking for a missing pair of crampons. To think that he hiked up without crampons and then climbed the ladders with one hand, carrying his skis and poles in the other was hard to believe.
Commotion before the ladders
The bottom of the first ladder looked straight down the snowfield we had climbed with two more short ladders leading up to a series of small grated platforms and then another ladder. Each ladder permanently affixed. Adi went ahead. Without ropes we used the ladders to climb the escarpment, walking along each grated platform looking down below before reaching the next ladder, one rung at a time, one ladder at a time.
At the top we peeled our skins and skied down a ways through rolling terrian, then continued onward looking for another way around a moraine where the snow became rotten or petered out; it was not easy making our way. We side stepped and punched through. Adi encouraged us to keep an open mind as we meandered and it became steep and the snow failed to support our traverse.
At some point we had to put ski crampons back on to traverse a bit of steeper hard packed snow that caused us to slide sideways. I was never sure what was below us or what we would have slid into. We then took the ski crampons off shortly after and it was a kind of mental game, taking things off and then putting them back on or vice versa. No one talked for the last hour leading up to Vignettes. The visibility was poor and it started snowing more and we got wet. The final climb an unknown because of the conditions. Everyone’s body language changed, but no one complained or said a word.
At the top we peeled our skins and skied down a ways through rolling terrian, then continued onward looking for another way around a moraine where the snow became rotten or petered out; it was not easy making our way. We side stepped and punched through. Adi encouraged us to keep an open mind as we meandered and it became steep and the snow failed to support our traverse.
At some point we had to put ski crampons back on to traverse a bit of steeper hard packed snow that caused us to slide sideways. I was never sure what was below us or what we would have slid into. We then took the ski crampons off shortly after and it was a kind of mental game, taking things off and then putting them back on or vice versa. No one talked for the last hour leading up to Vignettes. The visibility was poor and it started snowing more and we got wet. The final climb an unknown because of the conditions. Everyone’s body language changed, but no one complained or said a word.
We had made better time than expected, seven and a half hours instead of the estimated nine hours, but the white out and the long day was particularly noticable. The hut had a stone entryway for gear storage and a dedicated ski room. Inside there was a woodstove and more boot storage. Then up three flights to our room with bunks where we slept head to toe.
I hung all my outerwear to dry in the room with the woodstove including my boot liners. Then spread out more upstairs in our room on the shelf next to the bunk.
Adi later said he had never done the ski from Plafleuri to Vignettes. We drank beers and guzzled water in the afterglow of the climb. I ordered some food for the table. Everyone spoke French in rows of picnic tables on either side of the main room. Snow and wind outside.
Adi later said he had never done the ski from Plafleuri to Vignettes. We drank beers and guzzled water in the afterglow of the climb. I ordered some food for the table. Everyone spoke French in rows of picnic tables on either side of the main room. Snow and wind outside.
Gear room inside Vignettes
DAY 5 - FRI, APR 1ST
In the morning the decision had been made to descend into Arolla. New snow had bumped the avalanche category to ‘Considerable’. We had breakfast: cheese, chocolate granola, some orange juice, coffee, bread and took our bottles of tea then grabbed our equipment from the various places, cubbies and corners. Pulled down our skins from the hanging lines in the room with the woodstove and rustled the crampons and ax from beneath the bench, put everything in the backpack.
Outside it was knee deep.
In the morning the decision had been made to descend into Arolla. New snow had bumped the avalanche category to ‘Considerable’. We had breakfast: cheese, chocolate granola, some orange juice, coffee, bread and took our bottles of tea then grabbed our equipment from the various places, cubbies and corners. Pulled down our skins from the hanging lines in the room with the woodstove and rustled the crampons and ax from beneath the bench, put everything in the backpack.
Outside it was knee deep.
Walk into Arolla